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always thinking about this!!! does it matter if my memory of an event is a distorted version of the way i actually experienced it? how does that affect my judgment in the present? Like all psychology phenoms, the only thing you can do is be aware of potential biases…!
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(http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=R-Yw5nCzPMU)
The 21st of May is a national holiday in Chile commemorating a battle in la Guerra de la Pacífica (Chile vs. Peru) in the 1800s. It’s also the day when the president gives a huge public speech before the congreso, which happens to be here in Valpo. So along with the military parade, etc., there is a march, and everyone who’s pissed off at the gobierno showed up. (I wuz there.)
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“The heaviest of burdens crushes us, we sink beneath it, it pins us to the ground. But in love poetry of every age, the woman longs to be weighed down by the man’s body. The heaviest of burdens is therefore simultaneously an image of life’s most intense fulfillment. The heavier the burden, the closer our lives come to the earth, the more real and truthful they become. Conversely, the absolute absence of burden causes man to be lighter than air, to soar into heights, take leave of the earth and his earthly being, and become only half real, his movements as free as they are insignificant. What then shall we choose? Weight or lightness?”
- Milan Kundera
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¿alo?
Is anybody out there? I haven’t put any words out here into cyberspace for what seems like forever, but the world keeps turning! I’m still in Valpo! Still taking classes! Still filled with energy! Still eating a lot of fruit! Still exploring the city! Still taking capoeira! Still filling up pages of my little red notebook with new spanish vocab! Still happy! More details? I switched families at the end of March. For the first month, I lived in Viña del Mar in a high rise in front of the Unimarc (supermercado). It was a block from the beach and the family was nice, but we definitely did not click and it was an uncomfortable environment for me – far too clean and white and quiet. So I told my exchange program and they switched me to a family in Valparaíso, on Cerro Alegre, one of the most beautiful hills in the city. Here there are 3 kids – 9-year old Coty, 15-year old Andrés, and 22-year old Belén, who’s actually the niece. My new host mom is a lot younger and more open, and so sweet and loving – actually shows emotion! The dad works in Santiago during the week but comes home on weekends. I can breathe easier here, I’m no longer afraid to make a little bit of a mess, and the view out of my window makes me droooooool. Plus living in Valpo means spending almost all of my time in Valpo, which – wow, duh – is really what I need to be doing. The city is not big, but it is a labyrinth. It’s built from the ocean up to the cerros and spreads out following the coastline. The flat part closer to the ocean is called the plan and there the streets are grid-like and predictable, but walk up into the hills and you enter into a different world of winding cobblestone roads and crumbling staircases and pasajes lined with 10 foot tall murals leading who knows where. Starting from 2 adjacent streets in the plan that lead into the cerros, you’ll likely end up on completely different sides of the city when you’ve reached the top. As for the stairs, they serve as short-cuts leading to different cerros and pasajes and sometimes just go to houses. And of course, the famous ascensores of Valparaíso – the grand funiculars that, a century ago, were so crucial to public transport in the city, and now have fallen out of use because of the availability of buses and cars. Most are in disrepair, mostly because it’s expensive to maintain them, let alone fix them when they’re broken. To get to my house each day, I walk through the city’s centro up a beautiful run-down street with an ascensor (that brings you up to the main part of Cerro Alegre) and lots of colorful murals and clothes hanging up outside windows:
…then I go up a narrow side street that leads to a giant staircase in the side of the cerro, which ends up on Cirilo Armstrong, my street. This is the staircase from close to the top:
Here’s the thing about living on top of a cerro: you have to climb up it. And I love to climb and my legs feel so good and I feel the burn and I’m out of breath and when I get to the top, sweaty and triumphant, I can see the whole city and the port and the sea and there are so many colors and really, every time I get to the top, I get a little burst of joy at how lucky I am to be here and how beautiful everything is. And then I walk up to my door and unlock it and go straight to the kitchen for a glass of fucking water. OOF.
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“Todos los caminos y todos los destinos de la tierra van a dar al mar, Valparaiso”
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sí, vivo en esta ciudad. hay un lugar más lindo en todo el mundo?
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